Saturday, March 19, 2016

Hue and FELC

Its been quite a while since my last post- and there is a reason for that! Namely- Vietnam has been rough on my electronics.

A quick tally:
August- I ride my bike into a rice paddy and destroy my camera (I have to buy a new one).
October- I give my (new) camera to a teacher at my school, who drops it, cracking the screen.
February- my computer's motherboard breaks (not sure how). I take it to a repair shop- it last three days before breaking again.

Later in February- my kindle updates, but won't turn on. Not sure- it just won't turn on. I leave it alone for a week (checking every day). One week later- it turns on. No idea but weird.

End of February- my computer breaks again (same thing). I take it to the same shop- it lasts three days and breaks again.

March- in Hanoi, my computer breaks for a third time. I take it to a Hanoi repair shop with a woman from the Rising Dragon hotel to help translate. They tell me that there is a 95% chance they can fix it and 5% chance it will be broken forever. Also, it costs $60 either way. I tell them to go for it- all my stuff is backed up.

The next day, my phone charger breaks- no idea, it just stops charging my phone. I try every conceivable fix (checking online). With about 10% left on my phone, and no computer, I found a new charger from an "unofficial" Apple store (there are no Apple stores in Vietnam).

My computer was fixed the next day. Mostly. The motherboard works, but the mouse no longer does. Further, every 5 to 10 minutes it freezes and I can type and stay in the window, but not click on other links. I figured out that if I right click on my trashcan, I can reset it. Lets just say this: I'm looking forward to getting back to the States and getting all this stuff fixed for real (and maybe replacing my 5 year old computer).

On the positive side: my watch still works!

Hue

At the end of the February, I continued my travels around Vietnam with a visit to Hue: the Imperial city. Fortunately, (actually, the embassy requires it) an Fulbrighter was placed there this year. Diane, my friend, the "mom" of the Fulbrighters teaches at Phu Xuan University. Even Diane has taken many other Fulbright visitors around the sites, I was glad she was willing to be my tour guide too!

For those unfamiliar with Hue (as I was before actually going there), Hue is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the location of many massive Nguyen Dynasty tombs and an old Citadel (but huge- I'll come back to that later).

Sadly, there were no planes in the times I wanted to Hue, so I took the train. I wrote the test for the Lao Cai Provincial English Olympics, and was a judge. I left judging at 12 on Thursday. I took the bus to Hanoi, arriving at 5. I got to the train station at 6. My train left at 7:30. I arrived in Hue the next morning (13 hours later) at 9ish. One side effect of travelling in Vietnam is that I no longer blinck at journeys of less than 7 hours. 5 hours to Hanoi? Easy! 20 hours total time from Lao Cai to Hue-one way? Done. I'll no longer dread long car drives- I'm now a pro!

My first day in Hue was somewhat uneventful- it was cold and rainy. I was tired and cranky (I hate overnight trains when I just have a hard seat- not even a soft seat or bunk) and Diane was stressed- it was her first week teaching after two months off for semester break (from December to February). We mostly just wandered around. Then, it got even colder and rainier. So- we caved and watch Deadpool and Zootopia back to back. Interestingly, Deadpool was fairly heavily editted from the version I saw in Singapore- a lot less swearing and female nudity. Zootopia was of course excellent- I recommend everyone see it.

Saturday, we signed up for a tour- it was an efficient way of seeing everything! We spent the morning on a dragon boat hopping from site to site. We went to some pagodas (including seeing the car of the monk who self-immolated in Saigon) then had lunch. After lunch, we started going to Nguyen Dynasty emperors. The capital of Vietnam used to be in Hanoi. However, it was moved to Hue by the Nguyen Dynasty in 1802 and eventually moved back after it fell. (The Dynasty was coopted by the French and eventually was no more than a figurehead). These tombs are BIG (the guide- if you trust him- told me the inside was 25 square kilometers). They took over 20 years to build, and they had to encapsulate quite how wealthy these emperors were (for example, all had over 100 wives).

Dragon Boat

Car of theguy who self-immolated

We are DEEP DEEP inside the tomb complext (maybe 10 minutes walking straight back)

Tomb of Khai Dinh, known for its French influence. I didn't see it.

Ah. Here it is!


On Sunday, we went to the imperial Citadel. Sadly, the Americans bombed this like crazy in the war, but from what's left, its really impressive. Think Forbidden city type stuff (in fact, the inner sanctum is called the Forbidden Purple City). It took Diane and I all morning to walk around it. For a sense of scale: google map search Hue Citadel to see what I mean- it is basically a city!) The Citadel was used as a stronghold by Nguyen Emperors but now functions as part of the UNESCO World Heritage site, in addition to having families living on the outside part.


Random (unimportant) gate in the Citadel


FELC (Fulbright English Language Conference)

In Hanoi, the embassy told us that we'd have grants to carry out small projects in grant. I thought-sure, whatever. A couple weeks later, we got urgent e-mails that we needed to submit our grant proposals. Wait, what!? One ETA, Olivia from Yen Bai, wanted the 6 northern ETAs (me, Chelsea, Josh, Karen, Chin Yee and her) to do a conference with our schools. I'm lazy and didn't have a better idea, so I went with it. I didn't do much planning- leaving most of it to Chin Yee (whose school hosted it) and Olivia (who has high-level Vietnamese and conference-planning skills).

The conference ended up consisting of 6 delegations (4 students each from Grades 10,11,12 and 3 teachers) for a total of 90 and 10 embassy guests and 70 or so local teachers. So- it was big!

Most schools left Saturday morning and arrived Saturday at noon. We had events all afternoon, then a dinner and dance party in the evening. We had events in the morning on Sunday and closing ceremony at noon. My school was too far away, so we left Friday. We made some stops at local temples (like Chu Van An's temple; a famous educator, we prayed for luck there, A note to be careful, the students and I saw these weird tunnels in the temple under the alter with people walking underneath. The students had no idea what they were! So- we went through. Turns out once you start you have to go through 36 times to get good luck! We skipped that- maybe that is why we only won one competition!)

We (the Fulbrighters) planned competitive and non-competitive events (skits, debate, quiz bowl; team work olympics, dance party, etc) for the students, and hosted some workshops run by American teacher trainers for the teachers. We got really good feedback- the students had an absolute blast at both the competitions and just getting in groups to do stupid, fun activities. One teacher remarked that "you should do this every year, maybe more than once a year!" Again, it was a fun, but exhausting weekend!

Lao Cai delegation at lunch on Day 0 (Friday, our travel day)
Chin Yee and I preparing bags for guests (mostly Chin Yee)
Setting up
ETAs relaxing after Day 1
Waiting for the conference by showing me and the other teachers youtube video
Workshop on creative thinking
During break times, we played 4 square!
Grade 12 debate. Not bad! (of course, I only teach Grade 10 and 11)

Lao Cai Delegation

Quiz Bowl competition
Closing Ceremonies

On a last note, the conference marked the beginning of my final quarter of my time here. As of writing, I have fewer than 10 weeks left. I will post an update soon on what I feel I have gained and what I hope to accomplish in the last 10 weeks. Truly, the end is in sight.

Onwards. Always Onwards.
Daniel

Wednesday, February 24, 2016

Lunar New Year

My return from Dong Hoi marked the beginning of the holiday season. Stores started closing, school ended after two very lackadaisical days. People were PUMPED for Tet Holiday to begin! From February 1st to February 7th, preparations were in full-swing. People cleaned their houses, bought peach blossom trees, and stocked up on lucky money (little red envelopes with maybe a buck or 5 bucks in them). I asked people how they felt about Tet and I got one answer (in caps): EXCITED

I waited around- many stores were closed, there was no school, so I was pretty bored. I was invited to many people's houses for dinner and lunch, but my social life mostly consisted of eating Chung cake- a Tet special made from sticky rice and pork. It is OK, I guess, until everyone forces you to eat it because you are the foreigner, then you have Chung cake for every meal for a week!

Dinner with students (one of many)

I spent the actual New Year (midnight on Feb 7 going to 8) with a student's family. I was firmly told to leave my school by 11 pm or so. The first person to enter my school after New Year's had to be selected to ensure maximum luck for my school in the upcoming year (shockingly, they made the most junior teacher drive an hour back from his house to enter the school for 5 minutes just after midnight, then drive back).

At the student's house, we had dinner (not before offering it to the ghosts), burned paper money, then watched the New Year's Eve show (which translates into apple in English, I'm not totally sure what was happening). Around 2 or 3 am, we drove around to the family's friends and drank with them. After 3 or 4, we decided to go to bed!

11 Physics gave a hilarious (I gather) Tet performance

English Club (I'll update on this when we've met more than once)
I just wanted to let y'all know I started an English Club!

Fireworks are traditional on Tet- I'm not sure who gave this adorable
little girl 2 fireworks.

Praying to ancestors and offering them food


PM of VN giving a speech

Dinner! (We offered it to ghosts first of course!)
Singapore
After Lunar New Year, people typically go back to their home village to visit their husband or father's parents, then go to visit their wife/mother's parents. Then, they visit their friends. Since people rarely plan ahead when visiting, apparently there is a lot of missing each other in the night! However, this meant I was totally alone- literally every shop on my street was closed-even the guards were gone! I decided to go to Singapore to enjoy my break!

How can I put this...Singapore was AWESOME. It was like New York City crossed with Disney World. Singapore's motto should be: "because we can." And why not? Singapore does awesome stuff because they can! Should we get a giant 50 foot tall lion that shoots lights out of its eyes? YES. Should we build the largest single aquarium tank in the world? YES. Should we build an amazing clean, efficient, and fast metro system? YES. (sorry to end on a weirdly nerdy note).

Singapore is at the cross roads of Indonesia, China, Malaysia, India, and other countries besides. Therefore, it has an extremely strong culinary repetoire. Dani (my travelling companion and now girlfriend) ate Chinese food (greasy), Indonesian food (delicious, if new to me), seafood (BBQ Stingray- that Dani and I decided was probably not endangered), and even paella and spaghetti! (Fun Singapore fact: Singapore is one of the only countries to get its independence against its will. It was given from Britain to the Malaysian Confederation. Singapore fought to stay part of Malaysia, but the dominant Malay-countries kicked out primarily Chinese-ethnic Singapore, despite its protests).

Singapore is a big 1st world country in many ways. We saw Pride, Prejudice and Zombies. We did a locked room escape experience. But it is also in the East. We went to the Sun Yat Sen memorial park. We went to Little Malaysia and Chinatown.We went to a Lunar New Year celebration. 

Mostly, Dani and I walked around and observed. We went to the Botanical Gardens, the Fort the British used to control the island. We went to the National University of Singapore (accidently) and the National Museum of Singapore. We rode the cable car over the Universal Studios to the aquarium. It was a nice week!

Overall, Singapore was beautiful and awesome. If it were slightly cheaper it would surpass South Africa as my favorite country so far. If you can't tell, I'm a big fan of Singapore's vibe- the totalitarian aspect didn't come up much. Of course, we couldn't buy gum, and taxi drivers told us how great voting was, and complained about how the elite controlled the telecommunications industry. But hey, for a visit, Singapore was amazing!

Giant gardens with fake trees with restaurants at the top? OK!

80  foot tall Lunar New Year dude

Can I change my sign from the rooster to the Minotaur?

Mr. Dozier recommended I find Stamford Raffels. Of course I had to!
This is from Santa's Igloo. Its an "anti-cafe" with many board games,
wall to wall video games, and a giant movie theatre with only bean bags and the latest movies.
Also there is all you can eat candy and cereal (ice cream costs extra). It was pretty sweet

Architecture in Singapore is bananas

Mosque in Little Indonesia

View of Singapore from the giant Ferris wheel (imagine the London Eye)

Single biggest aquarium tank in the world (I think)

Giant lion THAT SHOOTS LASER LIGHTS OUT OF ITS EYES

Awesome food in Singapore!

Causally-a massive (world record) vertical garden shaped like the world

Marina Bay Sands Hotel (Singapore's landmark building)

BBQ Stingray. Delicious but spicy!

Dani, celebrating that Laos participated in the Youth Olympics in Singapore.
From the top of the Marina Bay Sands Hotel. I'd say I'll be back here, but
that might take away some of the force of my sign of.
5 am at the airport. We were both very sad to be leaving


Onwards. Always Onwards.
Daniel

Saturday, February 6, 2016

Science Fair, Teaching, and Dong Hoi

Since arriving back in Lao Cai on the 10th, I've spent most of the last three weeks here. That doesn't mean I haven't been busy.

Instead of travelling or playing sports, I decided to get ahead on lesson planning, so that after Tet, when I can play sports again (March, I think) and travel more, I will have all my lesson plans done. When I started, I had 14 weeks of teaching left (and I usually use between 3-5 separate lesson plans per week), which meant I had to create about 56 lesson plans. I cheated in some ways, by making my English major students do two different projects and present to the class (classes are huge so even putting them in groups of 4 means that we will take about 2 weeks to finish presenting). However, I have successfully completed the lessons for my non-major students and I have finished the plans (but not the materials) for my English major lessons (making question sheets for listening videos, creating different cards for our mock-Cabinet crisis simulation, etc). I hope to have everything done (or very close to it) by the time I leave for Tet break on the 9th! While I can always tweak my lesson plans, having them all completed will mean that I have finished the worst part about teaching (lesson planning) and can just enjoy the good part (actually teaching). 

Science Fair

A couple days after returning from HCMC, I got an e-mail inviting me to be a judge at the provincial science fair the next day. Now, I knew that I had been announced as a judge in the paper (someone told me) like 3 weeks before- they just waited until the day before to invite me. I say this not as a criticism (its not) but just to illustrate the Vietnamese culture of arranging things last second. It was a very typical Vietnam thing to do!

Of course, two Fulbrighters (Diane and Alvin) who as college instructors were on winter break, were due to visit that very day! I asked if Diane and Alvin could attend the science fair as well (was approved) and away we went!

The science fair was deeply, deeply impressive. The projects were just astonishingly brilliant. One group (from my school) had invented a flash-flood warning system (a problem in these parts), another group invented a device to lower the gates at railroad crossings automatically (as opposed to them being manually pulled across). A third group invented software to help learn math/math terms in English! 

Out of the 135 projects submitted, I judged only the finalists (the top 10) of which 6 would be sent to Hanoi for the national round. I asked my questions in English (as practice for the national round) and the students from my school answered capably (definitely could tell who went to my school and who didn't).

Interestingly, students from my school came running up to me on the 2nd day, fairly upset. They were mad because many (all) of the projects already exist in America/the West (like the 2nd place prize, a smoke alarm). I tried to explain to them that what mattered was the inventing process, not the originality of an idea but they were pissed. I decided NOT to tell them that none of the inventions were original. I was still deeply, deeply impressed with the ingenuity of the projects (building a BOWFLEX for like 10 bucks in spare parts; or building a insect trap out of a fan and a lightbulb) and it was really fun to be able to show Diane and Alvin around my school/city. (Also, they got to show me up by speaking in their fluent/near fluent Vietnamese!)

Lao Cai of the future!

Selfie at my school (clearly my selfie game is weak)
RELO Visit

Then, the next week, I got a visit from the Regional English Language Officer, Diane Millar. As RELO, she is in charge of all the Fulbright ETAs (like me), and teacher-trainers (English Language Fellow or ELF). Diane, her assistant, and her husband were coming to Lao Cai to celebrate the closure of a U.S. English program and to give a workshop.

In Da Lat, Diane came to talk to the Fulbrighters. Her advice to us? Chill out. Many ETAs (myself included) had been stressed or felt worried because we thought our lessons were not good or not good enough. She told us "If we wanted trained teachers, we would have sent ELFs. We want you guys to be friendly and out-going and do public dipomacy." As you can imagine, this lecture made me feel quite a bit better. While I think my lessons are fine (and in fact, good for someone with no experience and no training) I can see how they pale in comparison to the master teachers at my school (who have been selected for being the best teachers in the province and have way more experience). So, in conclusion- I liked Diane and was excited for her visit.

Diane arrived on a Friday (when I don't teach), and so I just followed her around all day-first to the closing ceremony for Access, a program for students who have few resources, then to a fancy lunch, then finally to a teachers workshop (where I saw many teachers I knew from around the city!). I got  a chance to show off my city (the Chinese border, the temple, both parks, my school, etc) and hear about Hanoi/the larger goings-on of the U.S. Embassy/Department of State.

Access ceremony


Always got to make sure I get my screen time
We took a visit to my school and met 10 English

Mountain Goat for dinner

Dong Hoi

James, a Fulbrighter from California, has been stationed in Dong Hoi, a town in central Vietnam famous for its caves (the biggest cave, Son Doong, made National Geographic a couple years back, sadly has a 3 year waiting list). As there were no planes to Dong Hoi in the time I wanted, I jumped on the overnight train and headed down to visit James and see one of the smaller caves.

My first impression of Dong Hoi was of warmth. The week before in Lao Cai...the weather frigid. It was beyond cold. It dropped below the 50s and 40s and hit upper 30s. Now, that might not sound that cold. Go outside in 30 degree weather. Now, get undressed and go to sleep. Wake up, shower, brush  your teeth. Get dressed. Spend all your time in 30 degree weather and it starts to get a lot worse. In the States, buildings are heated and insulated. In Vietnam- neither one. Now, I was advised by the the Fulbrighter last year to get a heater.but everyone insisted it would not drop below 50, so I didn't bother. Whoops. Every day, it was only supposed to be cold for another day or two, so I kept not bothering. Eventually, it had been a week of being able to do absolutely nothing (after teaching I would put on silk underwear, two layers of pants, a long sleeve shirt, sweater, jacket, and get under a blanket and in my bed and I would still shiver. It even snowed in Sapa- which sadly killed many animals and I believe some people (but thats rumor).

Anyway, after a week, you can imagine I was pumped to go south! My first morning in Dong Hoi, I went to a speech by the U.S. Ambassador Ted Osius (he was passing through a bike tour from Hanoi to Hue) and got a shout out in the speech (James did too,  I was just mentioned because I was wearing the Fulbright shirt haha). A Foreign Service officer came up afterwards and said she assumed I was Jewish from my last name and invited me to her house in Hanoi if I wanted some Jewish food or for Passover haha.

After the speech, we walked around and headed to Phong Nha cave- one of the local (i.e. only an hour or so away) caves. It was definitely pretty cool and HUGE.
I'm in the blue shirt in the bottom left corner

Phong Nha Cave

Ice cream with Anna, Kevin, Beth, and Nick (and James not pictured)

After the caves, James and I met up with the local ex-pats- Kevin and Beth- two Seattlites focused on preventing drowning, Nick- a Canadian college student, Anna- a German cafe owner) for dinner and late night ice cream. I really liked the ex-pats in Dong Hoi. Frankly, I was jealous that James has people who have been living in Dong Hoi for so long (some people over 10 years). It must be so nice to have older people who have been living in your town and know it well (and speak English fluently). In Lao Cai, I am currently the longest continuously tenured ex-pat at 6 months (David has been here on and off for 8 years but he is insanely busy so it is hard to see him).

The next day, James and I toured Dong Hoi city and met the other expats (Doc, a war veteran; Byron, a Filipino English teacher) and mostly just relaxed. James had described Dong Hoi as having a "chill vibe" and he was definitely right. Time seemed to  move by quickly- we didn't do much but sit and talk with people as they meandered about, and nothing seemed wrong with that (and drastic difference from my usual frenetic travel style). I also got to see James's school and meet some of his students. I was definitely impressed by both (while my students and school are great, there is a definite differential in the ability of resources). 

Saturday night, I took the night train back to Hanoi, stopped at the American grocery store for some essentials (cereal, dried fruit, and chocolate) and headed back to Lao Cai for the last week before Tet.

National Exam

As I've been mentioning since November, I've been working with the English national team and they finally got their results back! While some schools (like Lucas's school in Ha Tinh) had many students get top prizes (Lucas had something crazy like 4 first and 6 second), schools in less well-off districts tend to get fewer prizes.

My school ended up doing much better than last year! Last year, out of 60 students over 10 subjects, we had 25 prizes. This year- 41! (One first, 6 second, 12 third, and the rest "encouraging" or consolation prizes). The English team improved from 3 to 4 (1 third and 3 encouraging) but that might just be random variation, not true improvement. Again- a first, second, or third prize (scoring in the top 5%, 15% or 30%) earns one automatic entry to any VNese university to study that subject (so if you want to study medicine a first in biology doesn't ensure anything, but certainly helps). An encouraging prize awards 0.5 points extra (on top of the 1.5 points people from Lao Cai province get as a form of class-based affirmative action). So, having an extra 2.0 points out of 30 can mean the difference between a top university (requiring a 27 or 28) and a middle tier university (requiring a 24 or 25) or between going to Hanoi (usually requiring a 22 or 23) and remaining in an outer province (19-22 ish). So- my students were happy but simultaneously upset that they didn't all get prizes (again, they are big on solidarity).

Next up, I have a two week break for the Lunar New Year or Tet! I'll post an update on Tet festivities before I head off to Singapore during the "visit your relatives" portion of Tet.

Onward. Always Onward.
Daniel